Penrhyn (Paradise in the north) - Vol 22
Vol 22 - This week I look at the northernmost atoll in the Cook Islands group. It goes by many names, Penryhn, Tongareva, "Tonga in the skies," "Tonga floating in space".
안녕하세요, Kia Orana, Welcome
Apologies to the many followers of this newsletter for the delay in uploading new editions. I am currently in a moving phase from South Korea to New Zealand and then to The Cook Islands, and going through the procedures involved.
This week I present the sixth edition in my series looking at the Cook Islands.
In volume 20 I discussed the amazing history of William Marsters and Palmerston Island.
This week I look at maybe the most isolated and northern atoll in the Cook Islands. This beautiful Atoll is known as Penrhyn (Pen·rin).
Penrhyn - Image courtesy of Wikipedia.
From the above picture, we can see it’s an outstanding sight to see. A large expanse of blue and green ocean. Endless sky and little islands situated on the atoll. Quite a stunning almost unbelievable thing to see.
Located at the very far edge of the northern group of The Cook Islands. It really shows the expanse and remoteness of the Pacific ocean. In addition, it fully represents the huge distance the area of the Cook Islands covers in the Pacific Ocean. Located about 1300 km from the capital Rarotonga and 350 km from the nearest neighbor. It truly is in the middle of nowhere. However, don’t let the remoteness fool you into thinking it’s not a special paradise.
As demonstrated above, it’s far away from the capital Rarotonga. The nearest neighbors are Rakahanga (Ra·ka·han·ga) & Manihiki (Ma·na·hi·ki). These are about 350km away from Penrhyn (Pen·rin). In the context of the big ocean, it’s just a jump.
Comprising a total area of almost 9 square kilometers and the highest point of only 5 meters. It is the stuff of 18th-century novels. Isolation, hot sun, blue ocean, and endless skies. Currently, around 200 people live there. In the 1860’s it once had a thriving population that was stripped by Peruvian “Black Birders” or what we would call slave traders. A very sad part of their history. It is believed hundreds suffered this fate. Not only from Penrhyn (Pen·rin) but throughout the Cook Islands group. Many people were taken to South America, especially Peru, and never returned. I would be curious to know how many survived or if any descendants remain.
Penrhyn - Image courtesy of Wikipedia.
The atoll is made up of about 18 islets. There are two main villages. Omoka is located on Moananui on the left side and another major settlement on Pokerere is located on the eastern side. Unlike Palmerston island which I discussed previously this atoll has an airport. This airfield was built by the United States military during WWII. Depending on weather conditions and availability, it is possible to take a flight to Penrhyn (Pen·rin).
The first thing you notice is the lagoon. Wide, blue, green, and deep. In some areas up to 200 meters deep. With fish, turtles, sharks, and many other forms of life.
It's believed that it was first inhabited around 900 AD - 1000 by the Polynesians. The first Europeans to spot this paradise occurred in 1788 when the “Lady Penrhyn” sailed past as she was returning from delivering convicts to Australia.
What do the people eat on this far-flung atoll? The locals can access essential supplies every few months as a ship comes from Rarotonga bringing fuel, flour, etc. Generally, daily life consists of gathering fish and supplementing with coconuts and yams.
Check out this short video to get an idea of what it looks like.
It’s hard to imagine a place like this. In our lives, we are surrounded by noise, numerous people, and access to the world everywhere we look. However, places like Penrhyn (Pen·rin) make it seem the rest of the world doesn’t exist.
A fascinating place that definitely goes on the list of “must-see places.” In the next edition, I will release a Korean newsletter.
“Feed your focus, starve your distractions.”